Ladders and seige towers.

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Squire
 
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Re: Ladders and seige towers.

Sat Nov 07, 2009 9:24 pm

Balsa wood is what I use, works a charm.. Just measure the whole thing out before you begin, that way you get the proper sized ladder and all the bits match up.

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Re: Ladders and seige towers.

Sat Nov 07, 2009 9:26 pm

gil-galadofthenorth wrote:Balsa wood is what I use, works a charm.. Just measure the whole thing out before you begin, that way you get the proper sized ladder and all the bits match up.


I used balsa a while back, and though it's much stronger than car, I find its almost impossible to get a clean cut accross the grain on blasa wood, have you ever had that problem? If so, how do you solve it?
"Without darkness, there cannot be light."
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Re: Ladders and seige towers.

Sat Nov 07, 2009 9:37 pm

Generally a really sharp knife and being very careful gets rid of that problem. Lots of little small strokes of the knif. It takes a while, but the cut is good. Of course though, you can get away with a few splinters.
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Re: Ladders and seige towers.

Sat Nov 07, 2009 9:41 pm

Ahh right, because I haven't used balsa in a while, I realise that I would've been using a relatively old knife, thanks for the tip :)
"Without darkness, there cannot be light."
Projects going:
Handheld ballista
1/6 Scale King Tiger R/C Paintball tank
Siege Tower

Squire
 
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Joined: Mon Oct 05, 2009 9:12 am
Location: Langwarrin, Victoria, Australia

Re: Ladders and seige towers.

Sat Nov 07, 2009 10:18 pm

I've never actually had much of a problem with it, to be honest. Although, I do use very sharp modelling knives, so that may be a consequence thereof.

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Re: Ladders and seige towers.

Sun Nov 08, 2009 1:01 pm

Well actually finished this last night but I had a long day, and the detailed seige tower is on it's way :)

Image

And the cutout peices for the advanced siege tower (LOTR lookalike with extras)

Image
"Without darkness, there cannot be light."
Projects going:
Handheld ballista
1/6 Scale King Tiger R/C Paintball tank
Siege Tower

Squire
 
Posts: 271
Joined: Mon Oct 05, 2009 9:12 am
Location: Langwarrin, Victoria, Australia

Re: Ladders and seige towers.

Sun Nov 08, 2009 2:23 pm

Looks pretty good, as ladders go. Functional, I assume?

Can't wait to see the siege tower put together, it seems to have all the bits it needs.

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Re: Ladders and seige towers.

Mon Nov 09, 2009 11:31 am

Looking good so far.

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Re: Ladders and seige towers.

Mon Nov 09, 2009 9:31 pm

Ok, quick status update, I just restarted school again today and have been laden with work. The tower is still coming along and I think the next progress photos will be tomorrow.

Thanks, Dobber.
"Without darkness, there cannot be light."
Projects going:
Handheld ballista
1/6 Scale King Tiger R/C Paintball tank
Siege Tower

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Re: Ladders and seige towers.

Fri Nov 13, 2009 11:31 am

I have to answer this question in theoretical terms, since I use three different commercial siege towers and even more different commercial siege ladders for my own wargames (all will be on display at Recon next month, if anyone is interested).

Siege towers come in different styles, so you have to decide what type you want, or stick with a generic type that covers everything (such as the Warhammer Siege Tower design). Key factors:

Height of missile platform (if any) - allows shooting down at the battlements, especially unprotected rear ranks.
Height of ramp platform - hitting the main wall or towers, depending on height.
Number of floors - more floors = more work and more internal ladders but greater rigidity of the finished model. Make sure they're tall enough to place models in, and consider Easterling spearmen or UH pikes...
Overall dimensions - a wide ramp makes for an easier assault but is that fair in terms of the scenario? The Warhammer Siege Towers can cope with three figures wide (and three deep, making Easterlings savage in wall assaults!) but as a house rule we only allow two wide. A wider tower permits more troops to hide behind or in it, whether pushing the beast forward or simply using it as a jump-off point for the assault.
Equipment - will the tower be a shell, with open areas for lightness (less figures to push it) or solidly-armoured (higher D value and ample cover? Will there be arrow slits and battlements from which missile troops can shoot in the assault? Will there be a ram in the ground floor (or even higher up, where it can attack the weaker high wall sections)? Will there be ground floorboards, or will it be open to allow troops to push the tower from within?

A complicated but beautiful model can be made easier by having card templates off to one side of the tabletop that show the different floors of the towers and can have figures placed on them, without fighting to squeeze them into tight spaces and then out again...

For solidity, build the tower out of foamboard or MDF or some other rigid material and then use thin card strips or perhaps score the base material to represent planks over the top. This will be stronger and possibly more realistic than large sections stuck together. Remember that the widest practical plank would be perhaps 5mm wide (30cm in real life) - any more and the poor carpenters would struggle to get them in place!

Make the base of the tower as heavy as possible, to avoid excess 'wobble', especially when a massed phalanx of metal miniatures is storming over the ramp! Positioning the ramp so that it rests on the walls helps a lot, but keep the model sturdy in any case.

Kebab skewers were widely available during the summer at supermarket barbeque sections. I picked up lots at 99 pence for fifty or more long skewers in a pack. You may be lucky to track them down still - certainly it's worth asking the staff if there are any hiding in the warehouse - but otherwise you may be forced to look further afield. Try Pound Shops and other discount places, or perhaps ask a local butcher or fast-food place from where they get their kebab skewers; a trade supplier might provide some packs, although you may have to buy quite a few at once. They make great pallisades and logs and other goodies for the tabletop, so that's not such a bad thing...

Ladders should be symbolic more than 100% realistic. Taller ladders may have more 'bow' in them and be a little more fragile. The main things to consider are that they look tall enough to be useful (the Warhammer Siege Ladders are a little too small for troops to realistically clamber over a rampart, but no opponent complains about realism when yet another Uruk Hai warrior falls backwards off it!) and also that the rungs of the ladders are strong enough to have a figure - even a heavy metal one - standing on them. to represent how high they've climbed.

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